 
Odyssey Couleur
July/August 2004
Discover New Jersey
Historic Cape May
Feeling Special at Akwaaba
By Caryl
R Lucas Photography by Hosea Johnson
Situated on the western side of the country's oldest
seaside resort, on the southern tip of the Garden State,
Akwaaba by the Sea is a charming pastel sage, russet
and ivory-colored bed-and-breakfast that matches the
city's timeless mystique. When you step inside
Cape May's first black-owned bed-and-breakfast, you
see an array of antique treasures and contemporary
African crafts that adorn the five guest rooms, all
suites named after some of West Cape May's most prominent
African Americans. This hideaway, built in 1850,
is like a journey back in time.
Former Essence Editor-in-Chief Monique Greenwood and
her husband, Glenn Pogue, a broadcast engineer, opened
Akwaaba in 2001. Like many of its resplendent
sister bed-and-breakfasts, known as Painted Ladies,
dotting the 2.5 mile scenic stretch of Cape May, Akwaaba
by the Sea offers visitors a beautiful change of scenery
and unique cultural experience. West Cape May
was once home to many African Americans who worked
as cooks and maids at the beachfront resort hotels
during the 1940s. Local historians say Harriett
Tubman visited the one-square mile borough of West
Cape May, a stop along the Underground Railroad.
John and Andrea Howell, of Freeport, Long Island discover
the town's rich African-American history when they
visit in May, shortly before the start of the Memorial
Day weekend tourist season. They fall in love
with the quiet tree-lined streets, aligned with neat
and colorful Victorian jewels decorated with gingerbread
trim, and the beautiful panoramic view of the golden
beaches and lulling surfs of the Atlantic Ocean.
Following the three-hour long drive from Long Island,
the Howells are welcomed by Greenwood and Akwaaba's
Innkeeper, Brian Evans, who lead the couple on a tour
of the facility's five guest rooms.
"Wow, this is lovely," say Andrea Howell, a corporate
attorney with Keyspan, a New York gas and electric
utility, as she marvels at an antique ivory lace gown
on display in Dolly's Boudoir, named after the late
West Cape May socialite Dolly Nash. "There's
a lot of history here. I never knew about West
Cape May or its African-American community." Andrea's
husband John is an accountant.
The Howells, who left behind their two children at
home with a relative, can't wait to roam through the
lovely rooms, but first they enjoy a scrumptious breakfast
prepared by Greenwood, who's known for her favorite
Southern dishes of chicken and waffles, salmon cakes
and home-made biscuits.
"What I have created is a relaxing atmosphere and
a space where couples reconnect with each other and
my solo guests can get attuned with themselves," say
Greenwood, the author of "Having What Matters: The
Black Woman's Guide to Creating the Life you Really
Want" (HarperCollins).
"When I purchased this Victorian house and started
to learn about the history of African Americans in
West Cape May and Cape May, I wanted to celebrate our
rich heritage," adds the entrepreneur, wife and mother,
who also runs the Akwaaba bed-and-breakfasts in Brooklyn
and Washington, D.C.
After enjoying Greenwood's warmth and Southern (Jersey)
hospitality, Andrea and John stroll the historic streets
of Cape May, which boasts picturesque Victorian-era
structures, antique stores, five-star restaurants and
glossy gift shops. As they hold hands while standing
on top of a rock cliff overlooking the Atlantic at
sunset, the couple catches a glimpse of a school of
frolicking dolphins.
"I had heard a lot of great things about the Jersey
Shore, but this is phenomenal," says John.
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